Geylang ~ hidden gem behind the norm 'red light district'

Geylang Road
Singapore

Geylang ~ the infamous and notorious red light district of Singapore.

Ok here is the thing, when we arrived in Singapore first attraction we’ve seen is the ‘famous, recognized, and notorious red light district’ of Geylang. It’s like the first district that greeted us in when we first step out of Changi Airport (ahahaha!). Well, not to mention we are staying for a week in  Fragrance Hotel ~ Emerald and it’s within the vicinity. If you have been to Singapore or if you are already in Singapore, I am certain you’ll not miss this spot as it is known to any tourist around.

Our hotel is just a few walks away from this signage.

Geylang actually is one main road in Singapore opposite to Sim’s Avenue and  Guillemard Road. It’s bordered with small streets which the locals called Lorongs. I don’t know how many lanes where in there but the last number we saw when we went to Paya Lebar MRT station is Lorong # 41 that pass through Geylang River.

Fragrance Hotel ~ Emerald located within the vicinity of Geylang.

If you come from the airport and you pass along Geylang Road, all the lanes on your right are named ‘odd’ numbers like Lorong 1 to 41 while on your left are series of ‘even’ number lanes like Lorong 2 to 40. Honestly, I am in doubt that our hotel is located in here; however, the price of the deluxe room we booked for 7 days is hard to resist. The price is less than USD 100 dollars per night and when we checked it personally it’s one of the best accommodation we had as a budget traveler.

Intersection of Geylang Road and Sim's Way, on our way to Kallang MRT Station (EW10).

I arrived in Changi Airport around 8:00 in the morning and Balong picked me up after 20 minutes of waiting. While in the  taxi, I asked him what he feels like to be surrounded with ‘pub’ houses. He said that it’s just normal, nothing is strange as the ambiance feels like you’re in Malate in the Philippines. He added further that there are lots of tourist around plus bars to hang on but he pointed out there are more to explore that is worth to enjoy than the usual ‘thing’ going on in there.

This is what Geylang District looks like during night time.

Because of what he said it boast my interest and I asked myself what s the ‘story’ behind Geylang. Hmmmmmm that is for us to dig on (ahahahaha!). Despite our hotel is located within the vicinity, it’s doesn’t bother me at all, on the contrary it give us that unique feeling of the other side of this small dot country. Our main purpose is to visit ‘most’ the attractions that surrounds Singapore and ‘Geylang’ is one of the destination that we wanted to discover. There is something unique in it that we wanted to know  aside from it is called the renowned ‘red light district’.

Expects huge amount of traffic and lots lots of pub houses mushrooming around.

As we settle in our hotel on our first day, I persuade Balong to roam around the area first. It’s raining heavily when I arrived that morning but it just stop suddenly and it’s the best time to check places that engulfs Geylang. Since we wander around 9:00am, ‘no action’ is happening yet on the street. Hmmmmm am not searching for anything else ok (ahahaha!). If you compare the great gentrifications and modernization that took over Singapore in past years, Geylang seems to uphold its glory as it is actually quite unique and distinct from the rest of the country.

It's like you're passing through a piece of history that exist in Geylang

      1) Antique Shop Houses ~ Forget about the norm, Geylang for me is a hidden gem to discover. Just on our way out from our hotel there are rows of interesting architecture that really grabs my attention and that's a treasure. They are so colorful, pleasing to the eyes and represents a more authentic experience of Asian city life. I am really into cultures and tradition and  seeing the lineup of old shophouses along the stretch of Geylang Road really mesmerize me. It may not represent the whole country but looking at the vintage architecture that surround the area is way more beautiful than expected. It’s like bringing us back to the old days as intricate details can be found in most structures.

Old shophouses made into bar houses, stores and restaurant.

There are so many modern and towering buildings around but it doesn’t interest me much. I prefer to walk towards the remnants of history as it feels like I was transported to the time it was built, in another era to be exact. In here, it has this ambiance, nostalgia of a typical ‘Asian’ neighborhood. It’s like the other side of the coin, a complete opposite against the atmosphere in the city center. In Central Business District (CBD) everything is so busy in there yet here, everything seems so relax so ‘kampong’ feel (ahahaha!). Well, don’t know yet what happen at night, but am not that interested (ahahaha!).

I like the intricacy of each building. Thanks to the government who preserve the beauty of this 'old' Geylang.

If you have been to Malaysian Food Street in Resorts Worlds Sentosa, it seems that most of the shop houses which is considered as the distinctive hallmarks of Geylang architecture were copied and installed inside the food court. Did you happen to noticed that? Well, Singapore is part of Malaysia way back that is why it’s no question most of the buildings has Malay influences.

It may be smell like hell but taste like heaven, that is what they called Durian, the king of all fruit.

      2) Durian ~ By any chance do you know what Durian is? If you do then there are plenty of stalls all over Geylang that sells this local fruit. We do have durian trees in the Philippines and seeing a different varieties in here is pretty awesome. The seller said that most of the good breed he has are imported from Malaysia that is why it’s quite expensive around SGD 15 each per average size. I asked Balong if he wanted to have a slice of it but he just ignore me then (as usual ~ ahahaha!). We’ve seen few foreigners but they just cannot bear to stand the heavy smell of the fruit. Unlike me, I love everything about Durian specially the creamy and soft flesh that covers the whole seed within. It is one local fruit you should not ignore to try once you’re in Southeast Asia. It may smell like rotten fruit but taste it and you’ll amaze by its distinct flavor.

The facade of Geylang Serai Market, the focal point of Malay Community.

      3) Geylang Serai Market ~ Another treasure to explore is the Geylang Serai Market in Sims Avenue. This heritage marketplace offers plenty of Malay and Indian-Muslim specialties and considered as one of the best markets to enjoy while  in Singapore. The façade of the market is filled with labyrinth of stalls and rows of shops laden with clothing, groceries, household good, and lot more. Use your expertise in haggling as you can find cheap items as souvenirs for your family and friends back home. If you have been to Divisoria in the Philippines, then it’s their version which is way too smaller but very well organized (ahahaha!).

Malay architecture influences are very much apparent in here.

The stalls maybe small as most of the goods were cram from the low ceiling of the building but has a beauty of its own as it is considered as the focal point for the local Malay community. Right at the end, you’ll find plenty of hawkers stalls, which is a haven for foodie as everything can be found around with only few bucks required. We supposed to have our breakfast in here but we gave it a passed since we already have our coffee earlier in the hotel.

Yup, the one in the center is Frog Porridge, try it for yourself. Yummmy!!!

      4) Exotic Cuisines ~ Do you want to eat something exotic? Something out of your usual fried chicken and rice thing? Hmmmmm  how about a porridge with fresh frog legs? Sounds appetizing, right? (ahahaha!). I grew up in in the southernmost village of the Philippines, South Cotabato to be exact and this kind of ‘exotic’ food that other may say already passed through my taste buds (ahahaha!). I used to catch frogs with my friends when we were kids. Please beware that it’s not an ordinary frog that you find somewhere, the color is green and we locally called it ‘palakang palay ~ rice field frogs’ (ahahaha!). It taste really good, like chicken to be precise (ahahaha!).

This is just an ordinary rice porridge like the arrozcaldo in the Philippines sans the ginger.

They serve the frog separately with lots of spices into it. What you have to do is to combine it with the porridge.

Well anyway, when Balong and I saw an outlet with a frog logo in it, I laugh so hard as it brings back great old happy memories (ahahaha!). It’s interesting for them to have this specialty as we just ignore it in the Philippines. If you wanna try this, go to Eminent Frog Porridge in Lorong 13. There were plenty of customers when we passed by and wanted to try it myself  to compare the difference but Balong is too finicky with regards to food pretty sure he will just ignore me again (sigh ~ hehehe!). They even have a promo that time that gives you 3 frogs for the price of 2. Good luck! Bon Appetitoooo!!! (hehehe!)

I waited for Balong in Paya Lebar MRT Station while he was busy reading the map (afraid of getting lost baby? ~ ahahaha)

      5) Religious Places ~ Aside from food and shopping, you will find another more interesting aspects of Geylang if you go to Paya Lebar MRT Station. Visiting religious churches, shrines, monasteries, and mosque is always on our list as it gives us that ‘inner peace’. Balong and I are born Catholic but visiting other religions place of worship is just to explore another religion. There is something in it that makes our trip complete, but every time we get in we always ask permission first if tourist are allowed to do so.

Just on our way out of Paya Lebar MRT Station, Masjid Wak Tanjong greeted us then.

                a) Masjid Wak Tanjong ~ Just a few walks away from the station, you’ll witness the dome of Masjid Wak Tanjong in the corner of Paya Lebar and Sim’s Avenue. We wanted to visit the vicinity of the mosque but there are so many construction going on that hides the walk way. We supposed not to let the construction deter from visiting the area but the pedestrian lane were covered with road blocks and we don’t want to cross along the streets or else we will pay fines if ever get caught of jay walking. We thus content ourselves by taking shots a few meters away from the mosque.

Intricate carvings of Sri Sivan Temple.

               b) Sri Sivan Temple ~ Going further, the stunning tower with intricate details of Sri Sivan Temple which is dedicated to the presiding deity of destruction and transformation, Lord Shiva will greet you in. The Hindu Temple is beautifully unique and each columns in the temple are carved with figures of god and goddesses for the delight of the devotees. I spent a few minutes within checking each corner of the temple and admire the intricate carvings around. I did convince Balong to get in but he don’t want to as he was busy taking pictures of the vicinity.

This temple is dedicated to the presiding deity of destruction and transformation, Lord Shiva.

                c) Foo Hai Ch'an Monastery ~ Just beside the Sri Sivan Temple, is the Foo Hai Ch’an Monastery. The temple is so serene but before getting in, we asked permission from one of the staff who is cleaning the large insence if we are allowed to do so. After the staff gave us the go signal then we checked the vicinity around and amaze by the outstanding 9.9 meter tall statue of Quan Yin or The God of Mercy and Compassion. She was meticulously sculpted and adorn with all kinds of jewel ornaments, and when we checked each ‘1,000’ arms she has, each palm has peaceful eye that holds specific objects.

The facade of Foo Hai Cha'an Monastery just beside the Sri Sivan Temple.

Geylang maybe widely visited by tourist attractions because of its active night life but behind those glittering lights of pubs and clubs there are much more beauty to it that is worth to explore. The purpose of this article is not to explain the action that’s going on at night but the hidden gem that the district has.

Balong inside the monastery. The background is the outstanding 9.9 meter tall statue of Quan Yin or The God of Mercy and Compassion.

So will I have to comeback to Geylang? Absolutely YES! It’s a treasure, an attractions a visitor should consider visiting.

So that's it for now guys

Have a great day/night everyone.

Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeerrriioosssssssssss

Enan signing off.

SMILE

:)

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