Geylang ~ hidden gem behind the norm 'red light district'

Geylang Road
Singapore

Geylang ~ the infamous and notorious red light district of Singapore.

Ok here is the thing, when we arrived in Singapore first attraction we’ve seen is the ‘famous, recognized, and notorious red light district’ of Geylang. It’s like the first district that greeted us in when we first step out of Changi Airport (ahahaha!). Well, not to mention we are staying for a week in  Fragrance Hotel ~ Emerald and it’s within the vicinity. If you have been to Singapore or if you are already in Singapore, I am certain you’ll not miss this spot as it is known to any tourist around.

Our hotel is just a few walks away from this signage.

Geylang actually is one main road in Singapore opposite to Sim’s Avenue and  Guillemard Road. It’s bordered with small streets which the locals called Lorongs. I don’t know how many lanes where in there but the last number we saw when we went to Paya Lebar MRT station is Lorong # 41 that pass through Geylang River.

Fragrance Hotel ~ Emerald located within the vicinity of Geylang.

If you come from the airport and you pass along Geylang Road, all the lanes on your right are named ‘odd’ numbers like Lorong 1 to 41 while on your left are series of ‘even’ number lanes like Lorong 2 to 40. Honestly, I am in doubt that our hotel is located in here; however, the price of the deluxe room we booked for 7 days is hard to resist. The price is less than USD 100 dollars per night and when we checked it personally it’s one of the best accommodation we had as a budget traveler.

Intersection of Geylang Road and Sim's Way, on our way to Kallang MRT Station (EW10).

I arrived in Changi Airport around 8:00 in the morning and Balong picked me up after 20 minutes of waiting. While in the  taxi, I asked him what he feels like to be surrounded with ‘pub’ houses. He said that it’s just normal, nothing is strange as the ambiance feels like you’re in Malate in the Philippines. He added further that there are lots of tourist around plus bars to hang on but he pointed out there are more to explore that is worth to enjoy than the usual ‘thing’ going on in there.

This is what Geylang District looks like during night time.

Because of what he said it boast my interest and I asked myself what s the ‘story’ behind Geylang. Hmmmmmm that is for us to dig on (ahahahaha!). Despite our hotel is located within the vicinity, it’s doesn’t bother me at all, on the contrary it give us that unique feeling of the other side of this small dot country. Our main purpose is to visit ‘most’ the attractions that surrounds Singapore and ‘Geylang’ is one of the destination that we wanted to discover. There is something unique in it that we wanted to know  aside from it is called the renowned ‘red light district’.

Expects huge amount of traffic and lots lots of pub houses mushrooming around.

As we settle in our hotel on our first day, I persuade Balong to roam around the area first. It’s raining heavily when I arrived that morning but it just stop suddenly and it’s the best time to check places that engulfs Geylang. Since we wander around 9:00am, ‘no action’ is happening yet on the street. Hmmmmm am not searching for anything else ok (ahahaha!). If you compare the great gentrifications and modernization that took over Singapore in past years, Geylang seems to uphold its glory as it is actually quite unique and distinct from the rest of the country.

It's like you're passing through a piece of history that exist in Geylang

      1) Antique Shop Houses ~ Forget about the norm, Geylang for me is a hidden gem to discover. Just on our way out from our hotel there are rows of interesting architecture that really grabs my attention and that's a treasure. They are so colorful, pleasing to the eyes and represents a more authentic experience of Asian city life. I am really into cultures and tradition and  seeing the lineup of old shophouses along the stretch of Geylang Road really mesmerize me. It may not represent the whole country but looking at the vintage architecture that surround the area is way more beautiful than expected. It’s like bringing us back to the old days as intricate details can be found in most structures.

Old shophouses made into bar houses, stores and restaurant.

There are so many modern and towering buildings around but it doesn’t interest me much. I prefer to walk towards the remnants of history as it feels like I was transported to the time it was built, in another era to be exact. In here, it has this ambiance, nostalgia of a typical ‘Asian’ neighborhood. It’s like the other side of the coin, a complete opposite against the atmosphere in the city center. In Central Business District (CBD) everything is so busy in there yet here, everything seems so relax so ‘kampong’ feel (ahahaha!). Well, don’t know yet what happen at night, but am not that interested (ahahaha!).

I like the intricacy of each building. Thanks to the government who preserve the beauty of this 'old' Geylang.

If you have been to Malaysian Food Street in Resorts Worlds Sentosa, it seems that most of the shop houses which is considered as the distinctive hallmarks of Geylang architecture were copied and installed inside the food court. Did you happen to noticed that? Well, Singapore is part of Malaysia way back that is why it’s no question most of the buildings has Malay influences.

It may be smell like hell but taste like heaven, that is what they called Durian, the king of all fruit.

      2) Durian ~ By any chance do you know what Durian is? If you do then there are plenty of stalls all over Geylang that sells this local fruit. We do have durian trees in the Philippines and seeing a different varieties in here is pretty awesome. The seller said that most of the good breed he has are imported from Malaysia that is why it’s quite expensive around SGD 15 each per average size. I asked Balong if he wanted to have a slice of it but he just ignore me then (as usual ~ ahahaha!). We’ve seen few foreigners but they just cannot bear to stand the heavy smell of the fruit. Unlike me, I love everything about Durian specially the creamy and soft flesh that covers the whole seed within. It is one local fruit you should not ignore to try once you’re in Southeast Asia. It may smell like rotten fruit but taste it and you’ll amaze by its distinct flavor.

The facade of Geylang Serai Market, the focal point of Malay Community.

      3) Geylang Serai Market ~ Another treasure to explore is the Geylang Serai Market in Sims Avenue. This heritage marketplace offers plenty of Malay and Indian-Muslim specialties and considered as one of the best markets to enjoy while  in Singapore. The façade of the market is filled with labyrinth of stalls and rows of shops laden with clothing, groceries, household good, and lot more. Use your expertise in haggling as you can find cheap items as souvenirs for your family and friends back home. If you have been to Divisoria in the Philippines, then it’s their version which is way too smaller but very well organized (ahahaha!).

Malay architecture influences are very much apparent in here.

The stalls maybe small as most of the goods were cram from the low ceiling of the building but has a beauty of its own as it is considered as the focal point for the local Malay community. Right at the end, you’ll find plenty of hawkers stalls, which is a haven for foodie as everything can be found around with only few bucks required. We supposed to have our breakfast in here but we gave it a passed since we already have our coffee earlier in the hotel.

Yup, the one in the center is Frog Porridge, try it for yourself. Yummmy!!!

      4) Exotic Cuisines ~ Do you want to eat something exotic? Something out of your usual fried chicken and rice thing? Hmmmmm  how about a porridge with fresh frog legs? Sounds appetizing, right? (ahahaha!). I grew up in in the southernmost village of the Philippines, South Cotabato to be exact and this kind of ‘exotic’ food that other may say already passed through my taste buds (ahahaha!). I used to catch frogs with my friends when we were kids. Please beware that it’s not an ordinary frog that you find somewhere, the color is green and we locally called it ‘palakang palay ~ rice field frogs’ (ahahaha!). It taste really good, like chicken to be precise (ahahaha!).

This is just an ordinary rice porridge like the arrozcaldo in the Philippines sans the ginger.

They serve the frog separately with lots of spices into it. What you have to do is to combine it with the porridge.

Well anyway, when Balong and I saw an outlet with a frog logo in it, I laugh so hard as it brings back great old happy memories (ahahaha!). It’s interesting for them to have this specialty as we just ignore it in the Philippines. If you wanna try this, go to Eminent Frog Porridge in Lorong 13. There were plenty of customers when we passed by and wanted to try it myself  to compare the difference but Balong is too finicky with regards to food pretty sure he will just ignore me again (sigh ~ hehehe!). They even have a promo that time that gives you 3 frogs for the price of 2. Good luck! Bon Appetitoooo!!! (hehehe!)

I waited for Balong in Paya Lebar MRT Station while he was busy reading the map (afraid of getting lost baby? ~ ahahaha)

      5) Religious Places ~ Aside from food and shopping, you will find another more interesting aspects of Geylang if you go to Paya Lebar MRT Station. Visiting religious churches, shrines, monasteries, and mosque is always on our list as it gives us that ‘inner peace’. Balong and I are born Catholic but visiting other religions place of worship is just to explore another religion. There is something in it that makes our trip complete, but every time we get in we always ask permission first if tourist are allowed to do so.

Just on our way out of Paya Lebar MRT Station, Masjid Wak Tanjong greeted us then.

                a) Masjid Wak Tanjong ~ Just a few walks away from the station, you’ll witness the dome of Masjid Wak Tanjong in the corner of Paya Lebar and Sim’s Avenue. We wanted to visit the vicinity of the mosque but there are so many construction going on that hides the walk way. We supposed not to let the construction deter from visiting the area but the pedestrian lane were covered with road blocks and we don’t want to cross along the streets or else we will pay fines if ever get caught of jay walking. We thus content ourselves by taking shots a few meters away from the mosque.

Intricate carvings of Sri Sivan Temple.

               b) Sri Sivan Temple ~ Going further, the stunning tower with intricate details of Sri Sivan Temple which is dedicated to the presiding deity of destruction and transformation, Lord Shiva will greet you in. The Hindu Temple is beautifully unique and each columns in the temple are carved with figures of god and goddesses for the delight of the devotees. I spent a few minutes within checking each corner of the temple and admire the intricate carvings around. I did convince Balong to get in but he don’t want to as he was busy taking pictures of the vicinity.

This temple is dedicated to the presiding deity of destruction and transformation, Lord Shiva.

                c) Foo Hai Ch'an Monastery ~ Just beside the Sri Sivan Temple, is the Foo Hai Ch’an Monastery. The temple is so serene but before getting in, we asked permission from one of the staff who is cleaning the large insence if we are allowed to do so. After the staff gave us the go signal then we checked the vicinity around and amaze by the outstanding 9.9 meter tall statue of Quan Yin or The God of Mercy and Compassion. She was meticulously sculpted and adorn with all kinds of jewel ornaments, and when we checked each ‘1,000’ arms she has, each palm has peaceful eye that holds specific objects.

The facade of Foo Hai Cha'an Monastery just beside the Sri Sivan Temple.

Geylang maybe widely visited by tourist attractions because of its active night life but behind those glittering lights of pubs and clubs there are much more beauty to it that is worth to explore. The purpose of this article is not to explain the action that’s going on at night but the hidden gem that the district has.

Balong inside the monastery. The background is the outstanding 9.9 meter tall statue of Quan Yin or The God of Mercy and Compassion.

So will I have to comeback to Geylang? Absolutely YES! It’s a treasure, an attractions a visitor should consider visiting.

So that's it for now guys

Have a great day/night everyone.

Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeerrriioosssssssssss

Enan signing off.

SMILE

:)

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Fragrance Hotel - Emerald ~ best hotel option for budget traveler

20 Lorong 6 Geylang  

Singapore 399174

Room Number 504 that is where our room is located in Fragrance Hotel ~ Emerald.

Before we visit Singapore first thing we consider is where to stay. We need to budget everything as Balong and I need to spend a week in here and my worries is the cost per day and how safe the place is. There are so many hotels to choose within the city center but it’s cost is way out of our budget.

Balong's journey via Philippine Airlines to Singapore from Manila.

The purpose of our hotel accommodation is mainly for sleeping and something decent to stay on. I asked our friends Llowel and Lemwuel where is the ‘best’ hotel to settle and they referred us to check Agoda.com and Booking.com. Both websites has its own recommendation but I did several research myself first before making a final decision.

The colorful street of Geylang.

Most of the hotels I’ve seen are more than what I expected, our budget is only around PHP 2000 to PHP 4000 per night as we need to stay here for 7 days. Spending PHP 25,000 for the hotel alone is way too much for a budget traveler like we are, you know (hehehe!). 

I adore the beauty of the buildings that surrounds the area. Some are allotted for bar houses but others as restaurants.

Llowel suggested to book a hotel for the first 3 days and shift to another hotel in the next 4 days if ever we can find a much lesser, inexpensive accommodation. Am ok with his suggestion but I have no patience of going to the process of cancelling and rebooking to another hotel and much worse do the refund as my weakness really is to complain (ahahaha!)

This is the intersection of Geylang Road and Sims Way.

I asked Balong what his point be, he suggested: ‘wherever that hotel would be as long as we are together that is more than enough!!’. Say what????? How sweet of him to say that huh? (ahahaha!). Well,  we ended up booking ourselves in Fragrance Hotel ~ Emerald for one-week accommodation. You know how much is the price per night for two? It’s only SGD 78 just around PHP 2,574 or USD 60 per night, which is absolutely AWESOME!!!! What can you say about that huh? It’s quite hard to resist (ahahaha!).

There are so many old houses and it's intricate detailings remain.

I don’t know what to expect really but i keep my fingers cross as I already guaranteed the slot using my credit card (ahahaha!). Balong and I came from two separate countries and our meeting point is Singapore. He arrived a day before from Manila as he wanted to pick me up in the airport the next day.

On our way to Kallang MRT Station, just 10 minutes from our hotel.

I arrived around 7am in Changi Airport from Dammam, Saudi Arabia via Singapore Airlines. I was too excited exiting the immigration line but unfortunately, when I arrived in the lobby, Balong was nowhere to be seen. I wanted to call him up but my phone is totally drained. I did try several times to swap the simcard from one cellphone to the other but it’s not working really. Adding to the agony, I am really exhausted for almost 8 hours of air travel and have no good sleep even.

Sims Avenue where most of the 'bus stop' to and fro Singapore can be found.

Almost 20 minutes already had passed and I was in the midst of decision making if I hire a taxi going directly to the hotel or will I have to wait for him. Thanks as the wait didn’t last that long as when I looked at the right corner of the Terminal Balong arrived with Llowel soaked in wet as it rains heavily when I arrived (Llowel is our friend who  is based here.). I just found out that they got lost and they need to transfer from one terminal to the other as they’ve gone to Terminal 2 which is supposed to be in Terminal 3. Well, explanation doesn’t matter anymore as I just hug him tightly.

This is where our hotel is located, # 20 Lorong 6 Geylang  .

I felt sorry for what I’ve seen but was thankful that they arrived. I thanked Llowel; but he said his goodbyes right away as he still have an afternoon shift in Resorts World Sentosa. He just dropped us to a taxi stand and we part ways in there. His apartment is just in Tampines and only a few bus stop away in the airport. But before he leave, he promised to meet us up later on that day.

Facade of Fragrance Hotel ~ Emerald.

While in the taxi I asked Balong  how’s his first night in Singapore, he said that it was just fine and the taxi driver he took from the airport last night don’t know where the hotel is. Fortunately, when he started asking the locals, they found out that the hotel is just a block away (ahahaha!). He had his vacation here way back that’s why roaming around is just a piece of cake. I didn’t mention about his impression about the hotel but he bump-in and said that he already paid it in full. Say what???? Supposed to be I am the one who will pay for it as I used my credit card to guarantee the reservation, but since he did it himself. It’s party time then!!! (ahahaha!).

Two huge vases around 6 feet tall can be found on both sides of the sliding door.

Fragrance Hotel Emerald is located in 20 Lorong in the lively district of Geylang. If we talk about Geylang, the word tags along with it is the ‘notorious and famous red light district’. Hmmmmm sounds interesting (ahahaha!). Pub houses can be found almost everywhere and considered as one of the vibrant places to enjoy especially at night. 

The hallway from our room.

Our travel from  the airport to the hotel took only around 15 minutes sans the traffic. We paid SGD 25 or around PHP 825 or USD 19 as fare to our friendly driver who explained what to expect in Singapore. He said that Night Safari should be on our list along with Singapore Flyer. Even he will not say so, those spot were already on our top destination.

Instead of using an ordinary key they have a card detector with chips in it.

The hotel is a budget friendly accommodation complete with amenities that you need. Going to and fro Singapore is very accessible as it’s just around 3 minutes on foot to Sim’s Avenue where most of the bus stop is located. Since we are an avid user of MRT in  less than 10 minutes you’ll arrive to Kallang MRT Station (EW10) in no time. If you want a more faster mode of transportation, ask the reception to find a taxi for you and they gladly help you out.

Please don't disturb mate... yoga in session ahahahahaha!!!!!

When we reached at the hotel, two large porcelain vases can be found on both side of the sliding door. I can’t help myself but admire as it is way much taller than I am (ahahaha!). There are two friendly and accommodating receptionist who help us with our baggage. The reception area is on your right and seems Balong is already at ease as he knows already the sequence. The reception area is not that big but good enough to accommodate guest.  I noticed that there is a small fridge on the side selling fruit juices and we bought 5 bottles with us. 

While reading all the information above, what makes me happy most is the 'NO SMOKING PLEASE' sign at the bottom as i hate smoking (peace~ ahahahaha!)

On your left, they have  4 sets of  PC units which I don’t know if it’s free or not. We have our own laptops so we didn’t bother to ask but we’ve seen few guest using it. Just beside the elevator, there are plenty of brochure to choose from illuminating the list of  tourist spot to take pleasure in once you’re here in Singapore. Aside from its free you can get as many as you want as I’ve seen Balong took one pamphlets each.

Just insert the card you used as a key in the slot then you're ON.

Our room is situated in the 5^th floor of the building and there is an elevator to hop on. We’ve seen few Filipino’s staying in the hotel and feels  like we are just in the Philippines. When we arrived in the room, as expected the bed is king size big enough for two person and very well arranged and tidy, very good enough for what we paid for.

The TV is open but no one is watching (ahahaha!)

As usual, we brought our teddy bears with us serve as our ‘babies’ (wink wink ~ hehehe!). There is a 36-inch colored TV but we barely open it for the rest of our stay (ahahaha!). We are only here at night as most of the days we are out exploring. There is a hair dryer which I am fond of using too and a jug heater complete with sachet of coffee and sugar.

First night of Balong in the hotel with our 'kids' in the background (wink wink hehehehe!)

The en suite bathroom slash toilet is awesome as when I check the unit, the heater works perfectly fine (ahahaha!). They have prepared two sets of white towels with soaps, toothpaste and toothbrush. We brought our own toiletries but good for them to prepare one. Everyday, they clean the restroom and the room entirely in the morning and replace everything in it, from towels, to linen, to pillow cases.

Our treasures: Fluppy, Louie, Bob, Cammy, Mica, Alpo, Brent, Russ, Tizdalle, Ruy, Joe, Coco, Teddy, Razzle and the last the youngest, Baby Vanessa (hehehe!)

There is a wi-fi available too, when I open my laptop to email our families and friends about our arrival in Singapore, it just suddenly pop up. It’s an earth friendly hotel as air conditioning and the lights can be controlled right before you enter and before you leave. Once you left the room and when you took the security card from the central slide every equipment connected to electricity suddenly shut down.

There is a mini fridge on the side but I am not really an alcoholic drinker and I prohibit Balong to do so that’s why there is no beer inside (I am sorry baby, ahahaha!). The room is perfectly fine for me. It maybe within the ‘red light district’ but since we were in the topmost part of the hotel I haven’t heard any loud music around. It’s the best place to stay especially if you’re on a budget.

Our youngest Baby Vanessa, prefer to go to Barrio 7 than here in Singapore (ahahaha!)

The room feature modern furnishing beautifully decorated and well equipped for a comfortable and pleasant stay. It is just a 2 star hotel but the vicinity is completely safe and we even travelled at dawn from city center to here and no one even bother us.

BFF Lemwul busy doing his excuse letter while Llowel and Balong watching Naruto ahahaha!!!!

If ever you’re hungry, restaurants and hawkers stalls are the least of your worries as many famous local eateries can be found in here. They are usually open 24 hours and there are varieties of famous local flare to choose from. Ignore the ‘norm’ about pub houses, they may have quartered in here but having a taste of local cuisine is another story. There are some shopping malls around but we haven’t visited ourselves as we’ve been to Vivo City already.

Poor Balong, this is what is left in his pocket when he paid the hotel accommodation for one whole week!!! ahahaha!

If ever we will be back to Singapore, pretty sure I’ll pick Fragrance Hotel ~ Emerald in Geylang without a doubt. We haven’t encountered any problem for the rest of our stay here. In fact, very thankful to the cleaning staff who did a great job doing the chores everyday. We were contented and satisfied with their services, amenities, security, and specially their friendly staff. When we left the hotel we leave a note in our room saying ‘thank you’ and a few bucks as tips.

This is just one of the corner of Geylang at night. Looks tempting, ayt? hehehehe...

Thanks Fragrance Hotel for a wonderful experience!!!.

That’s all for now folks, have a great day and night everyone..

Cheeeeeeeeeeersss

Enan signing off.

SMILE


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