Geylang ~ hidden gem behind the norm 'red light district'

Geylang Road
Singapore

Geylang ~ the infamous and notorious red light district of Singapore.

Ok here is the thing, when we arrived in Singapore first attraction we’ve seen is the ‘famous, recognized, and notorious red light district’ of Geylang. It’s like the first district that greeted us in when we first step out of Changi Airport (ahahaha!). Well, not to mention we are staying for a week in  Fragrance Hotel ~ Emerald and it’s within the vicinity. If you have been to Singapore or if you are already in Singapore, I am certain you’ll not miss this spot as it is known to any tourist around.

Our hotel is just a few walks away from this signage.

Geylang actually is one main road in Singapore opposite to Sim’s Avenue and  Guillemard Road. It’s bordered with small streets which the locals called Lorongs. I don’t know how many lanes where in there but the last number we saw when we went to Paya Lebar MRT station is Lorong # 41 that pass through Geylang River.

Fragrance Hotel ~ Emerald located within the vicinity of Geylang.

If you come from the airport and you pass along Geylang Road, all the lanes on your right are named ‘odd’ numbers like Lorong 1 to 41 while on your left are series of ‘even’ number lanes like Lorong 2 to 40. Honestly, I am in doubt that our hotel is located in here; however, the price of the deluxe room we booked for 7 days is hard to resist. The price is less than USD 100 dollars per night and when we checked it personally it’s one of the best accommodation we had as a budget traveler.

Intersection of Geylang Road and Sim's Way, on our way to Kallang MRT Station (EW10).

I arrived in Changi Airport around 8:00 in the morning and Balong picked me up after 20 minutes of waiting. While in the  taxi, I asked him what he feels like to be surrounded with ‘pub’ houses. He said that it’s just normal, nothing is strange as the ambiance feels like you’re in Malate in the Philippines. He added further that there are lots of tourist around plus bars to hang on but he pointed out there are more to explore that is worth to enjoy than the usual ‘thing’ going on in there.

This is what Geylang District looks like during night time.

Because of what he said it boast my interest and I asked myself what s the ‘story’ behind Geylang. Hmmmmmm that is for us to dig on (ahahahaha!). Despite our hotel is located within the vicinity, it’s doesn’t bother me at all, on the contrary it give us that unique feeling of the other side of this small dot country. Our main purpose is to visit ‘most’ the attractions that surrounds Singapore and ‘Geylang’ is one of the destination that we wanted to discover. There is something unique in it that we wanted to know  aside from it is called the renowned ‘red light district’.

Expects huge amount of traffic and lots lots of pub houses mushrooming around.

As we settle in our hotel on our first day, I persuade Balong to roam around the area first. It’s raining heavily when I arrived that morning but it just stop suddenly and it’s the best time to check places that engulfs Geylang. Since we wander around 9:00am, ‘no action’ is happening yet on the street. Hmmmmm am not searching for anything else ok (ahahaha!). If you compare the great gentrifications and modernization that took over Singapore in past years, Geylang seems to uphold its glory as it is actually quite unique and distinct from the rest of the country.

It's like you're passing through a piece of history that exist in Geylang

      1) Antique Shop Houses ~ Forget about the norm, Geylang for me is a hidden gem to discover. Just on our way out from our hotel there are rows of interesting architecture that really grabs my attention and that's a treasure. They are so colorful, pleasing to the eyes and represents a more authentic experience of Asian city life. I am really into cultures and tradition and  seeing the lineup of old shophouses along the stretch of Geylang Road really mesmerize me. It may not represent the whole country but looking at the vintage architecture that surround the area is way more beautiful than expected. It’s like bringing us back to the old days as intricate details can be found in most structures.

Old shophouses made into bar houses, stores and restaurant.

There are so many modern and towering buildings around but it doesn’t interest me much. I prefer to walk towards the remnants of history as it feels like I was transported to the time it was built, in another era to be exact. In here, it has this ambiance, nostalgia of a typical ‘Asian’ neighborhood. It’s like the other side of the coin, a complete opposite against the atmosphere in the city center. In Central Business District (CBD) everything is so busy in there yet here, everything seems so relax so ‘kampong’ feel (ahahaha!). Well, don’t know yet what happen at night, but am not that interested (ahahaha!).

I like the intricacy of each building. Thanks to the government who preserve the beauty of this 'old' Geylang.

If you have been to Malaysian Food Street in Resorts Worlds Sentosa, it seems that most of the shop houses which is considered as the distinctive hallmarks of Geylang architecture were copied and installed inside the food court. Did you happen to noticed that? Well, Singapore is part of Malaysia way back that is why it’s no question most of the buildings has Malay influences.

It may be smell like hell but taste like heaven, that is what they called Durian, the king of all fruit.

      2) Durian ~ By any chance do you know what Durian is? If you do then there are plenty of stalls all over Geylang that sells this local fruit. We do have durian trees in the Philippines and seeing a different varieties in here is pretty awesome. The seller said that most of the good breed he has are imported from Malaysia that is why it’s quite expensive around SGD 15 each per average size. I asked Balong if he wanted to have a slice of it but he just ignore me then (as usual ~ ahahaha!). We’ve seen few foreigners but they just cannot bear to stand the heavy smell of the fruit. Unlike me, I love everything about Durian specially the creamy and soft flesh that covers the whole seed within. It is one local fruit you should not ignore to try once you’re in Southeast Asia. It may smell like rotten fruit but taste it and you’ll amaze by its distinct flavor.

The facade of Geylang Serai Market, the focal point of Malay Community.

      3) Geylang Serai Market ~ Another treasure to explore is the Geylang Serai Market in Sims Avenue. This heritage marketplace offers plenty of Malay and Indian-Muslim specialties and considered as one of the best markets to enjoy while  in Singapore. The façade of the market is filled with labyrinth of stalls and rows of shops laden with clothing, groceries, household good, and lot more. Use your expertise in haggling as you can find cheap items as souvenirs for your family and friends back home. If you have been to Divisoria in the Philippines, then it’s their version which is way too smaller but very well organized (ahahaha!).

Malay architecture influences are very much apparent in here.

The stalls maybe small as most of the goods were cram from the low ceiling of the building but has a beauty of its own as it is considered as the focal point for the local Malay community. Right at the end, you’ll find plenty of hawkers stalls, which is a haven for foodie as everything can be found around with only few bucks required. We supposed to have our breakfast in here but we gave it a passed since we already have our coffee earlier in the hotel.

Yup, the one in the center is Frog Porridge, try it for yourself. Yummmy!!!

      4) Exotic Cuisines ~ Do you want to eat something exotic? Something out of your usual fried chicken and rice thing? Hmmmmm  how about a porridge with fresh frog legs? Sounds appetizing, right? (ahahaha!). I grew up in in the southernmost village of the Philippines, South Cotabato to be exact and this kind of ‘exotic’ food that other may say already passed through my taste buds (ahahaha!). I used to catch frogs with my friends when we were kids. Please beware that it’s not an ordinary frog that you find somewhere, the color is green and we locally called it ‘palakang palay ~ rice field frogs’ (ahahaha!). It taste really good, like chicken to be precise (ahahaha!).

This is just an ordinary rice porridge like the arrozcaldo in the Philippines sans the ginger.

They serve the frog separately with lots of spices into it. What you have to do is to combine it with the porridge.

Well anyway, when Balong and I saw an outlet with a frog logo in it, I laugh so hard as it brings back great old happy memories (ahahaha!). It’s interesting for them to have this specialty as we just ignore it in the Philippines. If you wanna try this, go to Eminent Frog Porridge in Lorong 13. There were plenty of customers when we passed by and wanted to try it myself  to compare the difference but Balong is too finicky with regards to food pretty sure he will just ignore me again (sigh ~ hehehe!). They even have a promo that time that gives you 3 frogs for the price of 2. Good luck! Bon Appetitoooo!!! (hehehe!)

I waited for Balong in Paya Lebar MRT Station while he was busy reading the map (afraid of getting lost baby? ~ ahahaha)

      5) Religious Places ~ Aside from food and shopping, you will find another more interesting aspects of Geylang if you go to Paya Lebar MRT Station. Visiting religious churches, shrines, monasteries, and mosque is always on our list as it gives us that ‘inner peace’. Balong and I are born Catholic but visiting other religions place of worship is just to explore another religion. There is something in it that makes our trip complete, but every time we get in we always ask permission first if tourist are allowed to do so.

Just on our way out of Paya Lebar MRT Station, Masjid Wak Tanjong greeted us then.

                a) Masjid Wak Tanjong ~ Just a few walks away from the station, you’ll witness the dome of Masjid Wak Tanjong in the corner of Paya Lebar and Sim’s Avenue. We wanted to visit the vicinity of the mosque but there are so many construction going on that hides the walk way. We supposed not to let the construction deter from visiting the area but the pedestrian lane were covered with road blocks and we don’t want to cross along the streets or else we will pay fines if ever get caught of jay walking. We thus content ourselves by taking shots a few meters away from the mosque.

Intricate carvings of Sri Sivan Temple.

               b) Sri Sivan Temple ~ Going further, the stunning tower with intricate details of Sri Sivan Temple which is dedicated to the presiding deity of destruction and transformation, Lord Shiva will greet you in. The Hindu Temple is beautifully unique and each columns in the temple are carved with figures of god and goddesses for the delight of the devotees. I spent a few minutes within checking each corner of the temple and admire the intricate carvings around. I did convince Balong to get in but he don’t want to as he was busy taking pictures of the vicinity.

This temple is dedicated to the presiding deity of destruction and transformation, Lord Shiva.

                c) Foo Hai Ch'an Monastery ~ Just beside the Sri Sivan Temple, is the Foo Hai Ch’an Monastery. The temple is so serene but before getting in, we asked permission from one of the staff who is cleaning the large insence if we are allowed to do so. After the staff gave us the go signal then we checked the vicinity around and amaze by the outstanding 9.9 meter tall statue of Quan Yin or The God of Mercy and Compassion. She was meticulously sculpted and adorn with all kinds of jewel ornaments, and when we checked each ‘1,000’ arms she has, each palm has peaceful eye that holds specific objects.

The facade of Foo Hai Cha'an Monastery just beside the Sri Sivan Temple.

Geylang maybe widely visited by tourist attractions because of its active night life but behind those glittering lights of pubs and clubs there are much more beauty to it that is worth to explore. The purpose of this article is not to explain the action that’s going on at night but the hidden gem that the district has.

Balong inside the monastery. The background is the outstanding 9.9 meter tall statue of Quan Yin or The God of Mercy and Compassion.

So will I have to comeback to Geylang? Absolutely YES! It’s a treasure, an attractions a visitor should consider visiting.

So that's it for now guys

Have a great day/night everyone.

Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeerrriioosssssssssss

Enan signing off.

SMILE

:)

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Foo Hai Ch'an Monastery ~ Immaculate Shrine of 1000 armed Quan Yin

87 Geylang East Ave 2 
Singapore 389753

Singapore may be small in size but you can find almost everything in here. They have tons of loads to offer that is worth to deal with. If you want panoramic view of Singapore’s skyscraper, go to marina bay; if you love nature, visit Singapore Zoo; if you like entertainment, stop by to Universal Studious; and if you love night life, indulge yourself to St. James Power Station just near to Vivo City. These are just examples of so many attractions that you can take pleasure in while in Singapore but behind everything, it is also home to different religious beliefs and practices just in case you want to experience inner peace. 

Balong took this pic just outside of the monastery showing the Simsville Condo as the backdrop of SG MRT.

Singapore has a diverse religious beliefs and practices due to varied cultural mix of people originating from various countries. Most of the major religious denominations do exists in here but comparing to other nations they all live in harmony.

The statue of 'Agyo'.

While planning for our trip to Singapore, one of our top priority is to visit some of the temples. I am always fascinated with religion that is why ‘Foo hai Ch’an Monastery’ comes to our mind first. Aside from it’s the closest shrine we can get into from our hotel, ‘Sri Sivan Temple’ which is just beside the monastery boast our interest as well.

Statue of 'Angyo'.

Both temples are located in Geylang, recognized as the famous ‘red light district’. Please don’t get off with the word ‘red light’ because when we visit the vicinity it seems far from the norm.  Well, I don’t know really what usually happen at night but that is not our concern as our main purpose is to visit solely this monastery.

Informations about the two pairs of 'Heng Ha Dharma Protectors' just in the entrance.

We traveled early morning via MRT from Kallang (EW10) to Paya Lebar (EW8) station in order not to compete with other commuters. We took our breakfast just outside of EW8 station and headed directly to the area. Before going to the monastery, we pay a visit to 'Sri Sivan Temple' first and spent more than 30 minutes to witness the intricate design of the temple. I was trying to convince Balong to go inside but he refused to do so as he was preoccupied taking shots that surround the vicinity.

Facade of Foo Hai Ch'an Monastery. Thanks to the woman who cleans the large insence burner because she permitted us to get in.

Our experience in Sri Sivan Temple is so serene and so memorable since it is our first time to witness a Hindu Temple for real. So colorful and conspicuous that even from afar you’ll see how unique and distinct the temple is with shades of fuchsia and cream. At the backdrop, three towers are designed with sculptures of Shiva, Ganesh and other deities meticulously amassed in each tower. Each column and each wall of the temple is artfully designed with figures of gods and goddesses for the delight of the devotees. I wanted to stay for a while to witness a ceremony but we were too early for the rituals. 

The beauty of bonsai plant located just in the main gate.

After few minutes of witnessing the conspicuous beauty of Sri Sivan Temple, we leave and visit the monastery of ‘Foo Hai Ch’an’ which is situated opposite to the temple. At first, we were so hesitant to go in because no one is around but the main gate is open and seems inviting. Thanks God because there is a woman cleaning the large incense burner in the entrance and I confidently ask permission if it’s ok to visit each corner of the place. With her smile that signifies ‘yes’ lightens me up and I picked Balong in the gate as he was still busy taking snaps of the outside view.

Another bonsai plant at the back of 'Angyo' sculpture.

At the entrance, two pairs of wrath-filled and muscular guardians which named ‘Heng Ha Dharma Protectors or Guhyapada’ are standing on the opposite sides of the main gate. It’s the first time I saw such figures because usually two lions are always present in any Chinese establishments. As per information in the signage, they are pair of protectors that guards any Buddhist temples. It’s a manifestation of the ‘Bodhisattva Vajrapani’ protector deity and the oldest and most powerful of the 'Mahayana' pantheon. They traveled with the historical Buddha to protect cherished values and beliefs against evil.

Bonsai at the corner most part of the vicinity.

The left statue is called ‘Agyo’ and has his mouth open, representing the vocalization of the first grapheme of ‘Sanskrit Devanagari’ which is pronounced ‘a’ and signifies ‘birth of life’. The right statue is called ‘Ungyo’, and has his mouth is closed, representing the vocalization of the last grapheme of ‘Devanagari’ which is pronounced ‘un’ or ‘um’ meaning ‘death’. These ‘Dharma Protectors’ fierce and threatening appearance symbolizes to ward off evil spirits and keel the temple ground free from demons and thieves. Although Buddhism was a pacifist religion, these two figures were contradictory to this doctrine. They justified the use of violence in order to protect Buddha and his followers.

Foo Hai Ch'an Monastery was officially opened on 24th of October, 2004.

After reading the significance of ‘Heng Ha Dharma Protectors’, we entered at the front yard and was captivated by the beauty of many ‘bonsai plants’ that were arranged meticulously within the area. They were carefully cultivated that adds beauty to the surroundings. Seeing these miniature trees reminds me when I was in high school as I even tried making bonsai as a school project. Unfortunately, the design is not what I expected because it grows bigger everyday (ahahaha!). We’ve seen as well two little orange trees  (or perhaps citrus trees) just below the large incense burner loaded with fresh fruits. They were embellish with ribbons and just don’t know what it signifies but was wondering these trees seems bonsai but yet filled with fruits (awesome!).  

The gong/bell  pagoda located at the right side of the shrine.

Before stepping the stairs to the main shrine, we were in doubt if we will take off our shoes right away or wait until we arrived at the main lobby. Apparently, when we saw the lady who is cleaning the large incense burner still wearing her slippers; thus, we decided to wear it until we reached the main entrance hall. The reason why we were hesitant is because it's always customary to remove/leave your shoes outside of a temple.

The drum pagoda located at the left side of the building.

Just before entering the shrine, we found an exposed huge drum and a gong/bell located in the fascia of the main sanctuary. It hangs separately from a roof; the drum pagoda on the left and the gong pagoda on the right. In any temple, it is considered as one of the most important Dharma instrument used to gather everyone to announce the precepts, meal times, Dharma talks, etc.

The large incense burner on your way in.

The ringing of the bell before prayer time is used to give sound for keeping evil forces away. It is not just an ordinary bell; it produces sharp but lasting sounds in echo mode, good enough to touch your seven healing centers in your body. It is pleasant to God and help drowned worshipers from any inauspicious or irrelevant noises and comments that might disturb or distract in their devotional ardor, concentration and inner peace.

The temple is so serene, but before we started snapping pictures inside, I asked permission again if it's ok to do so. I guess I already asked 3 permissions, as a sign of respect you know. No one is around within the main hall except for one devotee praying in the corner. In order not to disturb him, we took pics silently and turn off the flash of our camera.

Chinese characters written in all columns of the shrine.

The main prayer hall is just stunning! The place is pristine that you can even see yourself in the tiles of the floor. It is very ornate and the intricate wooden ceiling is so detailed. Lots of Chinese scripts too in gold signage written vertically at each columns. Even the wooden doors that divide the main prayer area from the outside is very impressive and very fancy to say the least.

The beautiful and pristine temple of Quan Yin Bodhisattva.

But seeing for the first time the astounding 9.9 meter tall statue of ‘Quan Yin’ or ‘The Goddess of Mercy and Compassion’ is truly unexplainable. Her name literally means ‘she hears the cried of the world’’ and a manifestation of the Divine Mother and serves mankind in much the same way as Mother Mary. 

The main prayer hall of 1000 armed Goddess of Mercy and Compassion.

She was meticulously sculpted and her radiant body is adorned with all kinds of jeweled ornaments. She is immaculately beautiful, her smile is captivating, and her aura is so calm. She's the patron saint of women, fishermen, sailors, merchants, craftsmen and children among many others. The sculpture is called, ‘1000 Armed Quan Yin’ because she can protect so many people at one time. There is a peaceful eye in the palm of each hands and holds symbolic objects as well.

Figures located just at the top of the front door of the temple.

The large incense burner on our way out.

She has 11 faces on her head because she is a ‘bodhisattva’, a being of wisdom destined to become a Buddha. She has taken the vow of a ‘bodhisattva’ to save all beings from suffering by forgoing the final state of Buddhahood. Devotee can pray to her not only for comfort, healing, guidance and succor but also for mercy, compassion, and forgiveness. She shows through the flame of forgiveness how to free all the hardness of heart and teaches to have compassion for all. She comes as the Mother to dispel all illusion.

Is it citrus or orange tree?

There are numerous symbols and religious objects/figures here but unfortunately neither Balong nor I can read Chinese characters; that is why, the least we can do is to feed our camera with shots. Right after we checked each corners of the main prayer hall, we said our thanks to 'Quan Yin' and left to visit the Buddha Relics Pagoda that host the Buddha's relics at the top level.

The 5 storey Buddah Relic Pagoda just beside the shrine where it host the Buddha's relic at the top level.

Comparing to the beauty of the 7^th storey “Ru Yun T’a’ in ‘Chinese Garden’, this is a much smaller as this is only consist of 5 storey building but equally impressive in terms of structure and appearance. I don’t know if you are allowed to go at the top but there are stairs which is visible outside that will lead you there. The facade is decorated with two lion sculptures and a much smaller incense burner.

I am always fascinated with the beauty of pagoda. It's simplicity yet so stunning at its best.

Our trip to ‘Foo Hai Ch’an Monastery” is one experience not to forget, I maybe born Catholic but being in here gives us that peaceful feeling which is inexplicable. It brings  a lot of serenity that if you carrying a lot of stress and problems seems so easy to deal with. We’re privilege and thankful to include this trip in our itinerary or else we feel gutted if we missed this out. There are still so many known temples in Singapore but we will include that next time then. 

The entrance of the pagoda where the 'Bodhi Tree' just behind reminds Buddha's enlightenment.

As an advice better come early around 8am. I don’t know exactly what time is their rituals but when we visited the temple no one is around; thus, it give us ample time to visit each corner of the monastery without disturbing other devotees. 

These two sculptures of lion greeted us when we reached at the vicinity, they serves as the guard of the pagoda.

I have to admit we were intimidated at first to get in but asking a simple permission is the first thing you can do.  Don't be ashamed to ask, be nice. Follow some basic rules of etiquette to ensure that you don’t accidentally offend someone. Turn off your mobile phones, lower your voice, remove your shoes or caps, wear something modest (no shorts please), respect their beliefs and everything that surrounds you, never touch anything unless you are told to do so. Don't point your finger either because that is considered extremely rude.

The statue of Buddha inside the pagoda, on the left is the stairs that leads you to the top.

There are lots of things we learned from this trip, aside its depth history, and impressive architecture and carved effigy, temples as a whole are wonders to explore. Wandering the temple while lost in your thoughts is a memorable experience no matter your religious preferences are. Everybody is welcome whenever the temple is open, though it continues to be used as a house of worship; hence, there’s no cost for entry, but a respectful attitude is a must.

The tablet located just in the corner of pagoda.

So there you go, that is our story when we visited the holy shrine of 'The Goddess of Mercy and Compassion, Quan Yin'. 

Have a great beautiful day/night everyone.

Enan signing off.

Cheeerrrrrrrriiooosss..

:)

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